Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and travelers alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a prestigious roster of world cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it joins a global network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old culinary traditions and vibrant culinary scene," as stated by a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this time-honored city arrives as little surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has always shaped its soul: an profound passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known gems that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but say that their children do not want to learn the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people worldwide to discover these narratives and travel to the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
